The once-prevalent shrimp paste called Aramang in Aparri. (Photo courtesy of visitcagayan.ph)

Photo: The once-prevalent Aramang in Aparri, Cagayan. (Photo courtesy of visitcagayan.ph)

By VILLAMOR VISAYA JR., Philippine Daily Inquirer News Correspondent/GMA7 News Stringer

APARRI, Cagayan-Don’t look now but the once-prevalent aramang (Nepatopalaemon tenuipes) or spider shrimp who used to be a common staple among Aparrianos may end losing their breed.
No thanks to incessant river dredging that has reportedly threatened the habitat of the local shrimp paste, an export commodity from this town.
This soft-shelled shrimp endemic to the Cagayan River estuary was once abundant with about 200-kilo a night of fishing that can be harvested then years back.
Local fishers lament the loss of their main catch while chefs mourn the absence of Aramang’s unique flavor in their dishes.
The online page circulating in Aparri with more than 200,000 views highlighted the “enduring impact of the alleged black sand mining activities on the fishermen’s daily lives.” Fishermen lament the dwindling catch, echoing the sentiments expressed during the protest of 2022. The once-abundant marine resources have yet to recover, leaving many families grappling with diminished incomes and uncertain futures. Moreover, concerns raised about the erosion threat posed by the dredging project have not abated. Residents fear the long-term consequences of ecological disruption, especially in an area prone to flooding and vulnerable to the ravages of climate change.
Villagers complained that the supposed river dredging activities produce sound, light, and chemical pollution that have gravely disturbed the ecosystem, messed with reproductive patterns of aquatic resources, decimated the fish and shrimp population, including that of the aramang or spider shrimp, which is endemic in the area.
“The dwindling catch has considerably slashed the income of 11,000 fisherfolk and their families. Before the river dredging operations started in the first quarter of 2021, fisherfolk said one boat could catch up to 200 kilos of fish overnight off the coast of Aparri. Now, they would be lucky to take home three kilos of fish,” the villagers narrated.
Fisher Edgar Palattao shook his head in disbelief that the once-indispensable Aramang in Cagayano cuisine, an ingredient for dinengdeng, pinakbet, and okoy, and well-loved due to its savory aroma and rich umami taste are losing population rapidly.
The culinary significance of Aramang has been within the hearts of Cagayanos, serving as a symbol of their connection to the land and waterways that sustain them such as in Aparri wherein it named its feast as Aramang Festival, he said.
The celebration not only honors the popular shrimp but also pays tribute to the Aparrianos who have long relied on Aramang for their livelihoods.
“We plead for your compassion. Our fervent hope is that disaster brought about by black sand mining be stopped. May God touch your hearts so that you will heed our call,” dried fish vendor Marlyne Bugarin said as she urged government leaders to act fact and stop the operations.
“The once-thriving population of Aramang is now in peril, with its numbers dwindling to alarming levels. The culprit? The encroachment of black sand mining operations into the pristine waters of the Cagayan River. These activities have disrupted the delicate balance of the ecosystem, decimating the habitats essential for Aramang’s survival,” the Cagayan fishers group composed of villagers in Aparri, Gonzaga, Buguey, Gattaran, and Sta. Ana said in a statement.
“We have witnessed a stark decline in the once-abundant population of Aramang, leaving a void in both the culinary landscape and cultural identity of the region,” they added.
The economic impact has been reportedly felt by villagers due to the situation. “Despite challenges, there is hope on the horizon. Efforts are underway to raise awareness about the plight of Aramang and advocate for its protection,” the advocates further said.
Conservation initiatives seek to restore the habitats vital to Aramang’s survival and ensure the long-term sustainability of this iconic species.
“As we strive to preserve the natural and cultural heritage of Cagayan, let us not forget the humble Aramang, whose vanishing presence serves as a poignant reminder of the fragility of our ecosystems and the importance of collective action in their preservation. In safeguarding Aramang, we not only protect a culinary tradition but also honor the rich tapestry of life that defines our beloved region,” the group added.
“Fishing is the lifeblood of Aparri. Its people’s identities are closely anchored in its waters. The Parish of San Pedro Telmo is united with the fisherfolk in their clamor to stop ecological plunder of the river and the seas and claim their economic, social, and cultural rights,” parish priest Manuel Catral earlier said.
Aparri fisherfolk and residents reported the return of mining activity in the first quarter of 2021 with dredging sea crafts and huge sea carriers of the Chinese firm Riverfront Construction Inc. visibly operating in the Cagayan River, the Aparri delta, and the South China Sea. The company has yet to issue their statement on allegations. The company did not reply to queries sent to their representatives.
Incumbent mayor Bryan Dale Chan earlier said in the Earth Day program that the RCI dredging company does not have a permit to dredge the river, but only a general engineering service permit. He also said that the project went into full swing without public hearings and proper consultation with the people. Chan reiterated his support to the fisherfolk in their fight to stop the alleged black sand mining in the guise of dredging.#